When it comes to drums, heads and tuning are everything. Choosing the right heads for your kit can spell the difference between an instrument that speaks to you on a spiritual level, and one that just makes sound. If you’ve been playing drums for any length of time, you already know just how many heads are available today. Coated or clear, single or double ply, thick or thin — the options are staggering. This guide aims to shed some light on one of the most common questions we receive from our drummer friends: which drumheads are right for me?
A Brief History of Drumheads
A drumhead is the membrane that stretches across the drum shell and is where this class of instruments that produce sound by a vibrating membrane gets its name: membranophone. Traditionally made from animal skins (there’s archaeological evidence of alligator skin drumheads that date back to Neolithic China), today we are fortunate to drum when carefully manufactured, readily available plastic drumheads are the standard. Before the 1950s, most drums used calfskin heads. While calfskin did and does impart a cool sound, it was tough to install. Each head would come new as a dried round disc that had to be soaked in water first so it would loosen up. Then it had to be stretched over the drum shell and then manually connected to the hoop so it could be tuned up. On top of all that, the drumheads would expand and contract with the weather! The advent of plastic drumheads — most notably Mylar polyester and, in the marching world, Kevlar aramid fiber — has made life much easier for drummers today. It’s also given us new sounds and textures to play with.
Drumheads generally fall into one of two kinds: batter or resonant. Batter drumheads are the ones on the side of the drum that you strike — hitting it with sticks or a bass drum beater. Resonant heads are on the opposite side of the drum. Even though you’re not hitting them, resonant heads impart special qualities to the sound of your drums, so they’re just as important as batter heads. Within these two categories, there are lots of variants.
Types of Drumheads
Single Pl
Single-ply drumheads are the most basic, and typically thinnest, types of drumheads on the market, most commonly created from a single layer of ~10-mil Mylar (important note: a mil refers to one one-thousandth of an inch; it does not refer to millimeters.) You’ll find other thicknesses in the single-ply category, such as 3-mil snare-side heads or 6- and 7-mil specialty resonant tom heads. But in general, 10-mil is the most widely used.
Why should you opt for single-ply heads? As resonant heads, they, well, resonate better. And as batter heads, single-ply types are bright and help bring out the overtones of a drum. These are perfect for jazz and lighter styles of music but can also be used for rock. Their only limitation is that they are typically not as durable as 2-ply heads, so they don’t last as long in a rock setting. Even so, many players still prefer the sound of a single-ply head on their drums. The Remo Ambassador, Evans G1, Aquarian Studio X, DW Coated/Clear, and Aquarian Studio-X Series Coated Drumhead are industry-standard single-ply drumheads.
Double Ply
In addition to being more durable than their single-ply counterparts, double-ply heads tend to exhibit more attack, reduced overtones, and a shorter sustain. These are great for rock and styles of music where longevity and articulation are king. The most basic 2-ply heads are the Remo Emperor, Evans G2, and Aquarian Modern Vintage II, each made from two plies of 7-mil Mylar. Drummers rarely use 2-ply heads as resonant drumheads.
Many 2-ply heads feature more than just the two main plies. They may come with a ring on the outer edge to help control overtones, as is the case with the Remo Pinstripe and Evans EC2. They may even have an extra inlay ring of Mylar underneath, such as the Remo Powerstroke 4, or an internal felt ring, such as the Aquarian Super Kick II for bass drum. As with any head, experimentation is key to understanding which double-ply heads work best for your drums and playing style. Rock drummers, specifically, can read our inSync article “Best Drumheads for Rock” for more details.
Coated and Clear Heads
Coating on a drumhead tends to muffle the sound a bit. Clearer heads tend to sound brighter and more open. Which style is right for you comes down to a matter of personal taste. Coated heads are great for snare drums and critical if you play with brushes. You can’t get that beautiful “sandpaper” kind of sound with a clear snare head and brushes. Coated heads on toms tend to make the drums a bit warmer, while clear tom heads will give you more attack. The same goes for your kick drum. If you play jazz, a great sound is to have your kick drum tuned up high with no muffling or hole in the front head. Add to that a coated batter head and a fluffy beater on the pedal, and you can get a very musical-sounding kick drum with tone and pitch rather than just a low-end thud. If you’d like to further explore this topic, then please check out our inSync article “What’s the Difference Between Coated and Clear Drumheads?”
Specialty Heads
Specialty heads can get quite specific in the tone and feel they aim to achieve. As batter-side heads, these are best paired with a standard clear single-ply resonant head. Some popular choices include the Evans Hydraulic Glass and Onyx, Remo Vintage Emperor, Aquarian Reflector, and the Evans Hybrid marching snare head. Popular specialty reso heads include the Genera Resonant and Aquarian Classic Clear.
Caution: Never use a Kevlar woven snare head on a typical drum set snare. It can implode your shell.
Mesh Heads
Finally, to the cheers of parents and neighbors everywhere, many manufacturers now offer mesh drumheads. These are designed to bring down the volume while letting you practice on your drum set. Mesh heads are an awesome compromise because they not only reduce volume but also retain a very similar feel to standard drumheads. Pair them with a set of low-volume cymbals, and you’ll be able to practice anywhere, anytime!
Drumhead Maintenance
One question we get a lot here at Sweetwater is, “How often should I change my drumheads?” and the honest answer is, “It depends.” Rock/metal drummers who regularly gig are going to need to change their drumheads much more frequently than middle-school band students who only practice for maybe 30 minutes per day. Although modern drumheads aren’t as susceptible to weather changes as the animal-skin heads of yesteryear, they can still be affected to a lesser degree. We also suggest that you change your drumheads before any recording sessions as new drumheads will help your kit sound its very best.
All things considered, we think most drummers should change their drumheads every six months to a year. If you need help changing your drumheads, then don’t worry — Sweetwater’s already got you covered! Check out our SweetCare guide “How to Change Your Drumheads.”
In Closing
Finding the right drumhead is a matter of personal taste, but education can go a long way in helping you determine which head will best suit a particular application — before you buy. At the end of the day, don’t be afraid to experiment. It’s only through trial and error that you’ll learn what your instrument is capable of and how to manipulate it. You may find your kit does well with several different head combinations. One for pop, Latin, and jazz. One for rock, funk, and metal. Don’t hesitate to reach out to your Sweetwater Sales Engineer at (800) 222-4700 with any questions, and check out our huge selection of drumheads — we love talking drumheads, and we’re always eager to discuss the latest and greatest.