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  Electric Guitar: Buying Guide

Electric Guitar Topics:

» The anatomy of an electric guitar.
» Tonewoods: sonic signatures.
» How a pickup can influence your sound.
» Guitar necks explained.
» Do frets matter?
» What to Look for in a electric guitar..

Who hasn't dreamed of playing guitar in front of thousands of screaming fans? We might not be able to help you play any better, but we can put the right axe in your hands! This Sweetwater Buying Guide includes information that can help you choose an Electric Guitar for your needs. Since there's so much to consider when purchasing an Electric Guitar, don't hesitate to call 1-800-222-4700 for more information.


The anatomy of an electric guitar


Tonewoods: sonic signature

There are a number of factors that determine the tonal properties of wood. In addition, tonewoods respond differently in the hands of different makers. They can also take on different characteristics when used in different models of guitars - even those built by the same maker. Whether a particular wood sounds good or bad ultimately depends on who is doing the listening, so any attempt to sort out distinctions can only be subjective.

Perhaps the most important factor a luthier must take into account is velocity of sound, which refers to the speed at which a material transmits received energy. A luthier must design with materials that facilitate the transmission of vibrational energy. Lively materials, those with a high velocity of sound, or low internal damping make the best facilitators.

Most luthiers (though not all) believe that the wood chosen for the top is the single most important factor in determining the quality of tone of the instrument. It is also interesting to note that the wood itself takes on different characteristics depending on which part of the guitar it's used for. Makers of electric guitars with bolt-on necks have long been aware of the fact that neck and fretboard materials can have a significant bearing on tone. Bridge materials, like fretboards, cannot make or break an instrument, but they serve to enhance or edit the tonal effects of other woods in the guitar's construction.

In conclusion, it is important to remember that wood species can be responsible only for certain aspects of the tone of any guitar. Equally important are design, skill of the maker, and the quality of each individual piece of wood used. Tonewood selection however, can be a determining factor in the creation of a very special guitar or a guitar designed for a specific purpose.

Mahogany

When used as a top, mahogany has a relatively low velocity of sound (compared to other top woods), considerable density and a low overtone content producing a solid tone, and responds best at the upper end of the dynamic range. Mahogany-topped guitars have a strong "punchy" tone that is well suited to country blues playing.

When considered for back and sides, mahogany has relatively high velocity of sound, which contributes much overtone coloration. While rosewood guitars may be thought of has having a metallic sound, mahogany guitars sound more wood-like. The harder, denser examples of these woods can take also on the characteristics of the rosewoods. Mahogany back and sides tends to emphasize the bass and the treble.

Mahogany necks help to create a warmer, more "woody" tonal range. The same holds true when mahogany is used as bridge material.

Koa

Koa has been used for soundboards since the1920s. This hardwood has a relatively low velocity of sound, considerable density and a low overtone content. Therefore, it tends to produce a solid tone that responds best at the upper end of the dynamic range. Koa has a somewhat more "midrangey" tone that works well for playing rhythm and truly shines in guitars made for Hawaiian-style slide playing.

For back and sides, Koa tends to behave much like mahogany in terms of adding tonal coloration, but its emphasis is again more in the midrange.

Brazilian Rosewood

All the rosewoods contribute to tonal coloration. Brazilian rosewood is known for its high sound velocity and broad range of overtones, and is also characterized by strength and complexity in the bottom end and an overall darkness of tone in the rest of the range. Strong mids and highs also contribute a richness of tone to the upper registers. Rosewood guitars also have a pronounced reverberant-like tone quality, caused by audible delays in the onset of certain harmonics. Brazilian rosewood has tremendous clarity in the bottom end and sparkle in the top.

When used for necks, Brazilian rosewood adds sparkle and ring.

Indian Rosewood

Indian rosewood is also known for high sound velocity and broad range of overtones, strength and complexity in the bottom end and an overall darkness of tone in the rest of the range. Strong mids and highs also contribute a richness of tone to the upper registers. Indian rosewood has a thicker, more midrange overall coloration.

When used for necks, Indian rosewood can help fatten up the midrange.

Sitka Spruce Spruce is the standard material for soundboards, the most commonly used species being Sitka. Its high stiffness combined with the lightweight characteristics of most softwoods, makes it a natural for high velocity of sound. A strong fundamental-to-overtone ratio gives Sitka spruce a powerful direct tone capable of retaining its clarity when played forcefully. This makes Sitka an excellent choice for top wood for players whose style demands a wide dynamic response and a robust, meaty tone. On the other hand, the lack of complex overtones in Sitka can produce a somewhat thin sound when played with a light touch - of course, depending upon the design of the guitar and the other choices of wood in its construction.
Red Spruce Red spruce is relatively heavy, has a high velocity of sound, and the highest stiffness across and along the grain of all the top woods. Like Sitka, is has a strong fundamental, but also a more complex overtone content. Tops produce the highest volume, yet they also have a rich fullness of tone that retains clarity at all dynamic levels. In short, red spruce may well be the Holy Grail of top woods for acoustic steel-string guitars.
Maple

Maple, as a result of its greater weight and lower sound velocity, can be downright flat sounding, a blessing in disguise when a guitar is amplified at high sound pressure levels. This is why maple is the wood of choice for electric guitar tops. West coast big leaf maple is the softest and lightest of the maple family, with a wood grain that resembles waves. Aside from a visually breathtaking pattern, the wavy fibers of "curly" maple reduce the long grain stiffness and vibrate more freely. (This is the secret to the bright, clear powerful sound of the Parker Fly, a solid-body guitar made with a curly maple body.)

In acoustic guitar use, different species of maple, such as big leaf, sugar, and bearclaw tend to be more acoustically transparent due to their lower velocity of sound and high degree of internal damping. This allows the tonal characteristic of the top to be heard without the addition of significant tonal coloration.

Maple necks can impart a bright "poppy" tone that can do much to reinforce the top end of a large-bodied guitar.

Alder Alder is a lightweight wood that is highly resonant, producing a full rich tone. When used for solid-body construction, alder provides a very good low end and midrange with the best performance in the lower mid range. Alder also exhibits good high-end characteristics and sustain.
Poplar Poplar is a stringy, dense, yet lightweight hardwood that is unusually resonant. Poplar, when used in solid-body electric guitars, has an exceptionally crisp sound, often described as "spirited" and "bouncy" - even "funky." Poplar guitars are ideal choices for players who favor single-coil snap and clean sound.
Basswood Basswood is light, stiff, and stable, which makes it particularly effective for necks and bass instruments thanks to its excellent low-end response.


Ebony Ebony, the traditional material found on the necks of violins, classical guitars, and high-end steel strings, has the lowest velocity of sound of all the woods commonly used and has definite damping characteristics. While not a problem for large-bodied guitars made of red spruce or Brazilian rosewood, it may be something to consider when designing smaller guitars, particularly those using less resonant tonewoods for tops and backs.

 

How a pickup can influence your sound.

Single-coil pickups
The first electric guitars all used single-coil pickups. A single-coil pickup has only one coil of wire. It may have a single magnet, a single magnet with screws for adjustable pole pieces, or a separate magnet for each string. Regardless of the number and arrangement of magnets, it is still a single coil pickup if it has only one coil of wire.

Unfortunately, in addition to producing an electrical signal from a vibrating magnetic field, a coil of wire is a very efficient antenna. A coil of wire will "pluck" electromagnetic radiation out of the air, and we are surrounded everywhere by this radiation - most notably the sixty-cycle hum from building wiring, electrical noises from fluorescent lighting, and the most recent source of noise troubling guitarists with single coil pickups: the computer monitor. In short, single-coil pickups are susceptible to hum.

The single-coil sound
Single-coil pickups have a thin, clean, and transparent sound. These pickups are usually about 3/4th of an inch wide and 2-1/2 inches long. Single-coil pickups are common on Fender guitars such as the Stratocaster and Telecaster, two guitars that are very common in rock, country, and pop. Some of the most notable users of the Fender Strat single-coil sound include Jimi Hendrix, Eric Clapton, and Stevie Ray Vaughan. Famous Telecaster players include Bruce Springsteen, Buck Owens, and Johnny Paycheck.

Humbucker pickups
As early as 1935, Gibson introduced the first electro-magnetic pickup, referred to as the "bar." The first model this appeared on was the Gibson "Hawaiian Electric," but was quickly adapted to the ES-150 model by 1936 and Gibson banjos by 1938. Made famous by electric guitar pioneer Charlie Christian, the "bar" pickup was extremely successful. Even today it is known as the "Charlie Christian" pickup.

In the 1950s Ted McCarty, president of Gibson and an engineer by training, assigned Walt Fuller and Seth Lover the task of designing a pickup that would not be prone to "humming" in the presence of transformers, rheostats, and other electrical interference. Lover began work in 1954 and a year later filed a patent application for a pickup that utilized two coils to cancel or "buck" the hum, commonly known as "humbuckers."

A humbucker uses two coils and either two magnets (or sets of magnets), or pole pieces at opposite ends of a single magnet. Contrary to popular belief it is incorrect, or at least very misleading, to say that the two coils are "out-of-phase." When speaking strictly of electrical coils by themselves, they are said to be "in-phase" when they are wound the same direction. However, pickups are said to be "in-phase" when their signals are in phase (the signal generated in one pickup adds to the signal generated in the other, instead of subtracting from it). In a humbucking pickup, the two coils are wound with opposing electrical polarity, but the magnetic polarity for each coil is also reversed. Without going into great technical detail, this means simply that each coil carries two signals; the string vibration signal, which is reinforced, producing a thick, meaty sound, and the noise signal, which is cancelled.

The double-coil sound
The humbucker was featured on two models of Les Pauls in 1957, the goldtop Standard and the three-pickup Les Paul Custom. The warm, smooth, double-coil sound of the Gibson Les Paul is a favorite for rock, blues, pop, and jazz. While most of the guitarists mentioned above have played Gibson guitars, the most famous players whose sound is associated with the double-coil "humbucker" sound include in Jimmy Page, Joe Perry, John Lennon, BB King, Wes Montgomery, and Chet Atkins.

Many guitars have a combination of single- and double-coil pickups. It's also common for a double-coil pickup to have a switch that will turn one of the coils off to offer the player a choice between single- and double-coil.


Guitar necks explained.

If you haven't figured this out by now, no two guitarists are alike, and their preferences about their favorite guitars vary widely. That extends to guitar necks, too - you'll find an almost bewildering variety offered by different guitar makers! But we can pare down the neck issue to three important factors: the wood (type and number of pieces), the neck joint (how it connects to the guitar's body), and the profile (the width, thickness and shape).

What wood you do?
Whether your guitar's neck is one piece or made of two or more sections laminated together - this often makes the neck stronger - the wood used to make it is an often-debated topic. The issues center on the "hardness," determined by the tightness of the wood grain, and the weight, a crucial factor in constructing a balanced guitar. Here's a brief description of some commonly used neck woods:

  • Maple - This was what Leo Fender used on the first solid-body electric (which became known as the Telecaster). Maple is medium hard and medium weight, which worked well without causing the guitar to be neck-heavy. Fender also let the maple serve as the guitar's fingerboard, too (more about this in a moment).
  • Mahogany - Acoustic guitars have used this as neck material for a long time. It is slightly more "flexible" than maple (and a bit lighter). Its distinctive dark natural color makes a very attractive contrast to a maple or spruce top. Many acoustics also use mahogany for their backs and sides.
  • Rosewood - This tight-grained, heavy wood comes in a number of varieties. One, Brazilian rosewood, is now rare and expensive, the result of overuse and deforestation. Rosewood is also often used for fingerboards due to its smooth, hard surface. Paul Reed Smith builds electrics with rosewood necks and many acoustics have used this wood as well.
  • Pau ferro - This up-and-coming replacement for Brazilian rosewood (the name literally means "iron wood") is heavy and nonporous, which makes it easy to finish and popular for necks and fingerboards. One important point: Pau ferro can cause allergic reactions in about 15% of the population.
  • Basswood - Considering this wood's relatively wide grain, which makes it "softer" than others, basswood has found a place in both economy acoustics and in a high-end electric setting. Parker Guitars coats a basswood neck with carbon/epoxy resin to produce an extremely light, incredibly strong result.

No joint pains for these necks!
The neck joint is the point at which the neck is attached to the guitar's body. This is an important process for a couple of reasons. First, the joint must be able to withstand the pressure and stress created when guitar strings are installed and tensioned - and that pressure can be very high! Second, joining the neck to the guitar's body will affect the tone of the finished instrument, if only due to the increased mass of the guitar. For these reasons and more, the neck joint is carefully designed and constructed in both acoustic and electric guitars. There are three primary methods of attaching the neck:

Set (or "set-in") Neck
This simply means that the neck is glued into place. This method has been used as long as acoustic guitars have existed and is almost always used in acoustic guitar construction (with one notable exception, described below). The set neck is carefully cut to match its mounting point on the guitar body and the two sections are almost always connected with dove-tail joints to maximize the gluing surface and minimize neck wiggle. The Gibson Les Paul models are prime examples of electric guitars with set necks.

Bolt-on Neck
This term was applied to Leo Fender's first electric guitar, which would eventually be called the Telecaster. Ironically, Fender didn't use bolts at all - his guitar neck was attached to the slab body with four wood screws. Nevertheless, the name stuck. Some manufacturers actually do use bolts. Taylor, a custom builder of acoustic and electric guitars, developed a special bolt-on design in which the head of the bolt is inside the body of the guitar. Almost all other bolt-on necks are seen on solid-body electrics.

Neck Through Body
This approach is limited exclusively to solid-body guitars. The "neck" is actually an integral part of the guitar's body and extends the entire length of the instrument. In fact, Les Paul's early experimental guitars began with a 4" wood post that ran from tail to headstock, with the sawed-off halves of a guitar body glued onto its sides. More advanced neck-through designs use dovetail joints or dados - a "tab" in one piece that fits into a slot in the other - to connect the full-length neck to the body wings. Some players feel that the lower mass of the body wings cuts down on low frequency resonance, creating a bright, thin-sounding guitar. Neck-through instruments work well in high-volume playing situations that call for definition and clear low end. Some neck-through guitars (Gibson's Firebird, for example) use a mahogany neckpiece. This softer wood provides a warmer, rounder tone more characteristic of a set-in, or set-neck, guitar. The Parker Fly Classic combines a neck-through design with light basswood underneath its carbon/glass "exoskeleton" to provide a lightweight guitar with the feel of much denser, harder woods.

Profiles: A "C," "U," or "V?"
Neck profile (the "shape" of the neck) is probably the most personal element of a guitar. It affects how your hand and fingers "fit" the neck and how easily you can move from fret to fret. From early on acoustic guitars employed some variation of a "C" shape. Electric guitar makers have experimented extensively and a variety of profiles have evolved with the preferences of players. Jeff Beck's favorite Fender Stratocasters had a very fat "C" shape; current models of Fender's Custom Artist Jeff Beck Signature Strat have a smaller "C" to be more player-friendly.

Similar to the "C" is the oval neck profile. This offers a less pronounced curve at the back and has its followers. On the other side is the "U" - an almost-rectangular shape that appeared on many Fenders - perhaps best for players with long fingers. And Eric Clapton has favored a "V" neck that provides a comfortable groove down the middle. A variation on this is the "inverted V," that is thicker on the bass side and thinner on the treble side.

Width is as much a factor in the neck profile as shape, leading some guitar makers to abandon the letter analogy and begin describing profiles as "wide-fat" or "regular-thin" and so on, in which widths are "wide, regular or narrow" and depths range from "fat to regular to thin." This often provides a clearer description of the profile and can help you when you're shopping for guitars online. Parker and Paul Reed Smith use these types of descriptions.

So there are the "big three" elements of guitar necks. Sound like a lot? Once you start comparing guitars it'll all make sense! There's more to consider - fingerboards, fret sizes, headstock angles - but those can wait for another Buying Guide!


Do frets matter?

Most guitar players really don't give a lot of thought to the frets, though these can influence both tone and playability. Instead, most players will view the frets as an integral part of a guitar's fingerboard. If a guitar has a smooth, playable neck that allows you to bend notes, do hammer-ons and pull-offs, and deliver clean articulations at all positions up and down the neck, it means that the frets have been perfectly matched and properly "dressed" to provide the best overall action. The bottom line is that frets do matter, but it's the manufacturer who is best qualified to determine what size and thickness of fret wire matches the fingerboard of their instruments.



Electric Guitar

Body Style:
Electric guitars come in three basic body styles: solid-body, semi-hollow, (or semi-solid) and hollow-body.

When sustain, loud amplification and lots of effects are required, solid-body guitars are a good choice. Semi-hollow body guitars are useful when the more of the acoustic sound of the guitar with high levels of amplification are needed. Hollow body, or "jazz" guitars provide the acoustic sound of the guitar but can be prone to feedback at high levels of amplification.

Neck:
Choosing what type of neck your guitar should have is dependent on the size of your hand: necks come in a number of shapes such as C-shaped, thin, wide-thin, etc.

Scale Length:
Scale length influences both the tonal quality of the notes produced and the tension of the string at a particular pitch. Scale length refers to the vibrating length of the string, which is determined by the distance between "nut" and the bridge "saddle." Fret placement (see Intonation) is a ratio based on scale length so longer scales have more distance between frets.

Most modern electric guitars employ one of two commonly used scale lengths: the "Gibson" scale, at 24-5/8" gives the Les Paul its round attack and thick bass, and the "Fender" scale at 25-1/2", which gives the Strat its clear, cutting quality. A third scale length, the 25" scale, as used by Paul Reed Smith among others produces a distinctive tone, and is not a compromise between "Gibson" and "Fender."

Intonation:
Intonation determines whether or not the notes play in tune as you move up the neck. If the distance between the frets (usually above the 12th fret) is off, the guitar will be incapable of playing in tune and therefore useless as a recording or performance instrument.

Set Neck vs. Bolt on:
Some people believe that a set neck has better sustain than a neck that is bolted on. This may have an effect on which instrument you choose, but if you want a Fender Stratocaster, the neck is bolt-on, period. Conversely, if you choose a Gibson Les Paul, it comes with a set neck.

Number of Frets:
Most electric guitars come with 22 frets, however, if you like to play in the high register, a 24-fret neck will give you the full octave above the twelfth fret.

Finish:
With electrics, the type of finish does not affect sound as much as it does on acoustics, but you needn't worry about it in either case. Guitar makers take this into account when they build the instrument.

Bridge:
There are two main types of bridges for guitars; tremolo bridge and stoptail bridge. The tremolo bridge (or whammy bar) allows you to "dive" or bend all the strings at once, (good for Metal styles) but they can throw strings out of tune. The stoptail bridge is more stable as far as tuning is concerned and because it is fixed into the body, some players feel that it provides more sustain than the tremolo bridge, which "floats" above the body.

Pickups:
Most guitars have two pickups, one close to the neck, which provides a thicker sound, and one close to the bridge, which produces a more treble "twangy" sound. A 3-position switch allows you to choose between pickups or blend them. Some guitars have a five-position switch, which blends the pickups and changes their phase relationship to produce "glassy" tones. A third, or middle pickup is also available on some guitars for more sound blending options.

Tuning machines:
The type of tuning machine your guitar has is very important. This is what allows you to fine tune and hold pitch. Enclosed machine heads resist rust and airborne corrosives, and therefore don't require as much maintenance or replacement as open tuning machines.

Wood:
Choice of woods naturally affects the tone and weight of a guitar, but so do a number of other factors. This is all taken into account by the intentions of the designer. More expensive woods don't necessarily mean a better sounding guitar. The important question for you is whether you like the sound of the instrument.

 

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