Help! No Sound from Monitors

Excelsius · 06-13-2006, 10:17 PM

Today I got my Alesis M1 MK2 powered monitors. I used the interconnects and an adapter to connect them to the Santa Cruz soundcard and set the soundcard to 2 channel, but I get no sound!
I have connected the power cords and have also tested the speakers on my electric keyboard and they work. What is going on?

**AndyH** · 06-13-2006, 10:21 PM

If you unplug the adapter from the soundcard, then plug your old speakers' inputs in its place, making no other changes, do you now get sound out of the old speakers?

Excelsius · 06-13-2006, 10:24 PM

Yes. I just tried something else. I thought maybe it is the adapter so in order to test it, I left the 1/4 ti 1/8 adapter in the interconnects and then plagged it into a 1/8 to 1/4 adapter to fit into my electric keyboard. I got no sounds. So it must be the 1/4 to 1/8 gold plated adapter that I got from radioshack. But why? What can I do?

Excelsius · 06-13-2006, 10:27 PM

My adapters are "Headphone Plug Adapter." Should it matter? Aren't the adapters for speakers and headphones the same?

Excelsius · 06-13-2006, 10:29 PM

Another thing I notices is that on the plug there are just two plastic separators where on all my other plugs and interconnects there are two. On the package it says "Mono-To-Stereo" but I think all the adpaters in the store said that.

**AndyH** · 06-13-2006, 10:56 PM

on the plug there are just two plastic separators where on all my other plugs and interconnects there are two.

One of those twos should be a one, no? Anyway, you do not want a mono to stereo adapter, it should be stereo to stereo. The fact that it is labeled for headphones is not relevant.

I'm not sure what is going on but unless you are somehow cancelling out one channel with the other in that adapter setup, the adapter itself is probably bad.

Excelsius · 06-14-2006, 01:18 AM

Sorry, I meant one, my adapter has only one plastic band. By the process of elimination I am sure that it is the adapter. I tested the speakers with my keyboard and WOW, what clarity! I can't wait to listen to Bach. What's even more beautiful is that these speakers can output 120 watts and the manual tells that they are rated all the way to 200 Watts (4 ohms). I am very sure that in about two months I will be getting an amplifier (I know that these are powered speakers already, but I can still use them with an amp). My eventual goal is to get a 7.1 system with pro monitors.
Today it was late, I went to open stores like walgreen and home depot, but they didn't have any adapters. I will get the adapter first thing after college tomorrow. When I looked at the stereo pics of the adapter online, they had TWO bands. That's further proof that I need new adapters.

Excelsius · 06-14-2006, 01:38 AM

Andy, wanted to ask you about speaker placement. I have two pianos in my room covered with soft felt. Is it ok to place the speakers on top of each one? I also need 3m 30cm (10ft) and 4m 30cm (24ft) cables to get to the speakers. I know that there is a debate about what type of cable to use, but what do you think? Must I get some special cables that have low noise susceptibility? I don't have too many electronics in my room, only my PC and keyboard.

**AndyH** · 06-14-2006, 02:24 AM

I've never tried such a thing but I would think there is a strong possibility that the speakers could excite resonance responses from the pianos. That addition to the sound would not be welcome. It is very common to put speakers of that sort on stands to place them at the correct height. Dozens of companies sell such stands. The local music store might be able to recommend something.

You are talking about long interconnects between the soundcard and speakers, no? When the amplifiers are in the speaker cabinets there is no use for 'speaker' wire. The distances you quoted are within the capabilities of normal interconnects under most circumstances. ‘Bad circumstances' are cables running close to, and more or less parallel to, power cords, or near equipment that can generate significant EMI. Just reasonable well shielded cables are all that should be necessary.

Excelsius · 06-14-2006, 04:44 PM

I was right, my speakers worked. I can't test them too much because I don't have the proper wires. I had to get a cheap 1/4 to 1/8 adapter for about 1$ and it is not gold plated. There was nothing else available. Should I change them?
Could you please suggest some worthy interconnects? I will actually need 20ft and 40ft wires. Today I went to guitar centers to get long interconnects, but the long ones were only top of the line Mogami Gold Hi-Def Microphone wires (4 wires inside the cable). I paid $50 for only 10ft! They didn't have anything much longer than 25ft. Is that an overkill? Can you please recommend something? I went to many stores: radioshack, frys etc, but the longest they had was about 20 feet and the cable was thin. I think that I must buy the interconnects online.

**AndyH** · 06-14-2006, 07:16 PM

I've never needed such long interconnects, but if I did I would make them. I know I can buy microphone cable (single conductor with shield (and double conductor with shield for balanced connections) from a local electronics surplus store.

I don't know just what to advise for plugs. All cables I've had need to make used RCA connectors. There are some standard high quality manufacturers around, such as Switch craft and Neutrik. There are a number of audiophile oriented companies that have steal-your-eye-teeth prices for everything.

If you don't solder, you may be out of luck for this. Putting plugs onto cable isn't especially hard, but it isn't the best beginner's project. I don't know if non-solder plugs exist for this sort of application.

I suggest asking at
http://www.audiomastersforum.org/amforum/index.php
where a variety of professionals hang out. A number have made comments about buying and making cables in the past. Maybe a search would turn up something useful.

You can write about anything you want, but for a first post, I suggest sticking to the basics of what you need. If you confuse the issue with multiple topics, or even vague references, you run the risk of getting lots of information about everything except what you really want.

Excelsius · 06-15-2006, 03:06 AM

Thanks for the tip. I'll try that site. I wouldn't mind soldering my own plugs as long as someone experienced could give me some info about the right way to do it or the best info/guide that I can read. I have the soldering iron but have used it only a few times. My minor is in physics so I have understanding about circuits as well.

**AndyH** · 06-15-2006, 10:34 AM

I saw SteveG's reply. He is right about the level control not being too convenient with the speakers so far away, but if you can live with going over to them to adjust the volume, you won't need any additional equipment.

The thing I find tricky about soldering cables is keeping the wire ends in contact with the plug fittings while trying to solder them. If the wires want to move, you will never get a good solder joint.

I have a PanaVice with plastic jaw shields. I hold the plug in that so it won't move. I prepare the cable carefully, including lightly tinning the ends I want to solder. I clamp the cable, over the outside insulation, into the plug's bendable clamps. For some cable/plug combinations, I wrap some teflon plumbers tape around that part of the cable before clamping it, in order to make it fit better. I make sure the wire ends are completely in place against the proper plug parts before I start soldering.

It is also necessary to secure the rest of the cable so it won't move while you are soldering and so its weight isn't putting any strain on the plug connection.

From a little reading, I get the impression it is a popular practice is to secure the cable to the plug by applying a little hot melt glue around the area of the clamp. This is for the same purpose, to assure that the cable won't move while you are trying to solder it. Never having used that myself, I'm not sure how difficult it might be to avoid getting the glue on the parts you need to solder.

I've been using the product called Goop (http://www.amazinggoop.com/) after the soldering -- and testing -- are completed. I apply it around the plug end that will be under the cover so that once the cover is screwed down it all becomes a solid mass (apply, screw on cover immediately, let harden). This provides better strain relief than just depending on the cable clamp. I guess the hot glue does that too.